Virado à paulista: aguardando tombamento

Arroz, tutu de feijão, bisteca, linguiça, couve, torresmo, banana à milanesa e ovo frito. Criado no século 18 em São Paulo e servido tradicionalmente às segundas-feiras, o virado à paulista é candidato a se tornar patrimônio imaterial da cidade.

No dia 19, o Conselho Municipal de Preservação do Patrimônio Histórico, Cultural e Ambiental da Cidade de São Paulo (Conpresp) recebeu requerimento pedindo o registro do prato, o preferido dos bandeirantes.

Ele foi enviado pelo vereador Juscelino Gadelha (PSB), que também já protocolou outros cinco pedidos de patrimônio imaterial, entre os quais a festa de San Gennaro, na Mooca, zona leste da cidade. “Hoje os botecos fazem bem menos virado à paulista. É importante que o prato seja tombado para preservar a tradição.”

Para o professor de Gastronomia da Faculdade Anhembi Morumbi, Ricardo Maranhão, tombar um prato significa resguardar sua importância cultural, além de preservar a receita original.

A importância é defender determinado padrão e garantir sua qualidade. No Brasil essa prática não é tão frequente, mas existe na Europa desde o século 12.”

Consumido pelos bandeirantes, que o levavam enrolado em lona – daí o nome “virado” -, o prato é servido em diversos restaurantes da cidade. No Sujinho, rivaliza com a famosa bisteca às segundas-feiras e custa R$ 25,50.

Segundo a coordenadora de Registros do Departamento de Patrimônio Imaterial do Instituto do Patrimônio Histórico e Artístico Nacional (Iphan), Cláudia Vasques, a chance de o requerimento ser aprovado é pequena.

Comidas nunca viram patrimônio imaterial, mas a cultura que envolve um grupo na sua produção, como aconteceu com as baianas do acarajé.”

Gadelha, que nunca teve um pedido aceito, diz que o Conpresp não tem pessoal qualificado para analisar processos

    Author: Redação

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